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I'm actually questioning this repair, the first time I've ever questioned a repair. I've spent about 7 hours so far with a couple more to go while I fault-find. And there is an underlying assumption that nothing has failed that is "unobtainium", and the investment in time will actually result in a working pedal.

At what point is the decision needed to write the pedal off and use it for parts (like the previous owner did)?

OK... everything is working now. C25 was toast. It should be 10uF.

Functionally perfect now.

One last fault - in "mute" mode there is a frying bacon sound, the kind of "sizzle" sound that a failing component makes. Track that down and I will have an NS-2 that cost me about $10 in parts and 10 hours labour.
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Oh, that's good news. But ten hours ... Well, the crammed Deucetone RAT kept me busy for lots of hours as well.

For pepe - the potentiometer board.

Pots were removed and scrubbed clean. The discoloration on the legs is just that - discoloration. The corrosion has been removed.

The Reduction LED has been replaced because the legs on the original one were too corroded.
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Pepe wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 28, 2023 6:22 pm

Oh, that's good news. But ten hours ... Well, the crammed Deucetone RAT kept me busy for lots of hours as well.

Yeah. Lucky this is all a "hobby", eh?

If it is for my own use and benefit, it's okay if something takes lots of time. But even when I repair something to trade or sell it again I put the amount of effort into it that it needs to work great again. I simply cannot stand the look of broken gear.

Thanks for the photos. Is there a way to clean those potentiometers if they are crackling too much? Like the trick with drilling a small hole into a wah potentiometer to use tuner spray? Someday I have to treat the potentiometers of my Alesis mixer if that's possible.

Pepe wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 28, 2023 6:40 pm

Like the trick with drilling a small hole into a wah potentiometer to use tuner spray? Someday I have to treat the potentiometers of my Alesis mixer if that's possible.

Looking at these pots, I'd drill out the "rivets" holding the body together. Then hold the body back together with wire after cleaning.

Easier to buy a new pot if they can be sourced...

Pepe wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 28, 2023 6:40 pm

I simply cannot stand the look of broken gear.

Agreed. If it can be fixed and saved from the landfill/junk box I am driven to do it...

Frying bacon sound is fixed. C7 was faulty.

Basically every electrolytic capacitor anywhere near the acid was toast.

All done now. Just have to screw on the base-plate and wait for the better knobs to arrive.

Very good!

This one nearly beat me - not technically, but the investment of time.

Here is the last pic I will post (I promise!). After cleaning the rust off the baseplate I was going to clear-coat it, but I had a little bit of metallic left in an old spraycan so used that.

Done
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