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I've built a tap tempo switch for my DD-7. Switch is normally open, closed when footswitch pressed. Doesn't work.

Tempo using the pedal treadle works fine.

Does anyone have a functioning tempo footswitch on their DD-7? Or an FS-5U that they can try on their DD-7?

Hmmmm.... tried a different cable (same electrical specs) and it started working. WTF? Oh well, at least it works now.

Tried a couple of different cables... the tap tempo input is VERY sensitive to the cable specs. One cable gives rock solid tempo. Another is random, and the original cable doesn't work...

File this idiosyncrasy away for future reference. Use well shielded tightly braided cable and Neutrik plugs.

laurie wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 27, 2021 1:50 am

Use well shielded tightly braided cable and Neutrik plugs.

This is always right.

laurie wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 27, 2021 1:50 am

Hmmmm.... tried a different cable (same electrical specs) and it started working. WTF? Oh well, at least it works now.

Tried a couple of different cables... the tap tempo input is VERY sensitive to the cable specs. One cable gives rock solid tempo. Another is random, and the original cable doesn't work...

File this idiosyncrasy away for future reference. Use well shielded tightly braided cable and Neutrik plugs.

That's interesting. I would never think that the cable would have so much influence with just a functional open/closed switch operation.
I have successfully used a variety of cables (shielded/unshielded, cheap and good connectors over the last 23 years with my DD5/FS5U. Perhaps this is a DD7 thing, more technologically advanced, therefore more particular..?

Two other cable related things:
1. My Universal Audio interface MUST have an Apple Thunderbolt cable to work properly. Off brands don't work at all.
2. Mesa Boogie makes strong mention to use unshielded cable with the foot switches on the older Mark and Recto series amps. These are just latching foot switches and I guess it's just so each wire within the cable is the same resistance/capacitance..? I know I have used shielded cables with no issue.

Definitely the quality of the cable.

Foot-switch - Carling SPST, non-latching, NC (original switch when I did the first post was NO and it worked fine, but NC aligns with the FS-5U polarity switch position). Jack for switch - Switchcraft 11.

Cable #1: made from "cheap" microphone cable - just something I had laying around that I've used in the past for guitar and line-level signals with no issues. Approximately 25% shield coverage. Rean (Neutrik) straight plug on the switch end. Mode "pancake" right angle connector on the DD-7 end. Cable length 1.2m. Did not work. At all.

Cable #2: Guitar cable. "normal" grade. Rean straight connectors on either end. Cable length 7m. Worked sporadically.

Cable #3: Guitar cable. "High" grade. Neutrik straight connectors on either end. Cable length 7m. Worked perfectly.

Cable #4: made today from expensive Japanese low-capacitance cable. Shield coverage 100%, two center conductors. Rean straight plug on the switch end. Neutrik right angle connector on the DD-7 end. Cable length 1.2m. Works perfectly (this is the one that stays on the pedal-board).

@Bigtone23 - I agree. I would never have thought that the cable would have that much effect.

The jack for the footswitch is designed to take a tempo switch or an expression pedal. What I think is happening is the circuitry (or software) is sensitive because it continually tries to sense if there is an expression pedal connected.

laurie wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 30, 2021 2:26 pm

The jack for the footswitch is designed to take a tempo switch or an expression pedal. What I think is happening is the circuitry (or software) is sensitive because it continually tries to sense if there is an expression pedal connected.

That's what I supposed as well. Thank you for the test results.