BossAreaForum

If you want to separate the treadle from the base, you will need to knock the pivot pin out.

The end to hit (hard) with a "drift" is the one with the cone-shaped point - on the left in my pedal. Do not try to take it out the opposite way - it has a spline and it will not go.

BEFORE YOU START - loosen the small bolts holding the piece of spring steel that provides friction to the pivot pin.

It takes a lot of force. I used a hammer and a correct size drift and placed the pedal on its side on a block of wood with a hole drilled for the pin to come out into. Then WHACKED it.
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This is the end you hit - the "pointy end":
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Good tip!

I'm glad that I have never had a repainted wah pedal, but this is a good tip, indeed.

I recently came into possession of a Jimi Hendrix JH1 wah with a failed potentiometer.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=986

I've resurrected it and found it had a faulty switch. I swapped a new standard 3PDT switch in (it doesn't need 3 poles, but that's what I had), and found all sorts of flakeyness with the switching.

It tuned out that the toe bump stops were missing. Without toe stops, the treadle hits the switch very hard, and, interestingly, the rack that turns the pot hits the baseplate - the toe bump stops are what keep all the geometry correct.

After a lot of trial and error I was able to fabricate new bump stops, and adjust the switch so that:

• The rack doesn't bottom-out on the bottom plate.

• The switch switches with the "right" amount of pressure on the toe of the treadle - not so little that you accidentally turn the pedal on/off. This is achieved by setting things just right so the bumpers compress just enough.

This adjustment is really precise to make everything work properly.

The small round bump stops that are usually available at the hardware store will not work - they aren't tall enough. The bump stops must be 4mm tall. Any shorter and the rack hits the plate, much taller and the switch can't be adjusted to be actuated.

The material for the bump stops is CRITICAL. Not so soft that it compresses too much and the rack bottoms out, but soft enough that it does compress just enough to allow the switch to activate.

Here are some pics, just in case anyone else has the same problem in the future.
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I ran into the same problem with the EBS Stanley Clarke Signature Bass Wah. Without the bump stops the rack gear always hit the bottom plate, which was very annoying. I was able to order original replacement parts from EBS in Sweden that didn't cost a fortune.

(I sold it on, because this pedal produces a severe volume drop, which made it completely useless for me.)

Pepe wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 05, 2025 8:35 pm

I ran into the same problem with the EBS Stanley Clarke Signature Bass Wah. Without the bump stops the rack gear always hit the bottom plate, which was very annoying. I was able to order original replacement parts from EBS in Sweden that didn't cost a fortune.

(I sold it on, because this pedal produces a severe volume drop, which made it completely useless for me.)

I was going to try to order OEM parts, but I took it as a personal challenge to figure it out and use local materials

The idea to use a leather punch was really great! It looks like a round rubber piece that you bought in exactly that shape.

This is the punch I used:
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