BossAreaForum

I picked up one of these a few weeks ago for cheap in need of repair:
https://travelerguitar.com/products/esc ... UH1cFSiRDb

Mine is slightly different to the one in the link above - it has a rosewood fretboard. It had problems with the electronics, a broken jack plate and some serious dings in the finish - it had been dropped, and had a hard life. You can't see most of the dings in the "before" pic, but it was rough.

I refinished it a couple of weeks ago in metallic green and have been waiting for the polyurethane to harden. Will put it back together over Christmas.
. .

What a great colour! I hope everything will work great in the end. Looks like a fun instrument.

Awesome color!

Nice!

I've wanted to tackle a project like that for a while (get a beater and redo the insides and all, perhaps defret a bass, put better pickups in but refinish it) and I've seen a lot of videos on how to tackle the board but not on refinishing.

My understanding is:
- You sand off the clear coat (or what remains).
- You sand off the color to get to the original wood.
- You paint it (or dye it if you want to see the grain)
- You varnish it.

Now, I have a couple questions on the process:
- What paint do you use? Spray? Is there a specific kind you need? How many coats?
- What is the clear coat? (I assume it's PU since it's likely what you are waiting for to dry). How many coats? How do you do when you want a matte finish?

I want a project bass bad, but I need some guidance on the do's and don'ts, especially on painting the body.

PS: I hope I'm not derailing this thing but it seems like you've achieved EXACTLY what I'm looking at doing but have no idea how.

No worries. Am out of town for a few days happy to share everything I know when I get back to my laptop.

If you don't see anything from me please just ping me.

I've only ever refinished guitars in a solid colour. Generally the ones I refinish have been knocked around quite badly and a transparent finish would show the repairs.

Of course, always use PPE - safety glasses, gloves, respirator, etc. Plus do the spraying in a well ventilated area.

This is the process I use. All sanding is done wet with wet-and-dry sandpaper.

• Sand back old finish with 220 grit. I never take it all back to the wood because I only finish in solid colours. Only need to ensure the old finish is scuffed for adhesion of the new paint.

• Fill any large imperfections with Bondo auto body filler. Carefully sand smooth with 220 grit and a block. Needs great care and the use of a block because the Bondo is tougher than the surrounding old paint.

• Once the surface is completely smooth give one last light sand with 400 grit.

• Spray the entire body with filler-primer: https://www.duplicolor.com/en/products/ ... ler-primer

• Hand sand smooth with 600 grit.

• Repeat the two steps above if any sanding scratches are still physically evident from the previous 220 grit sanding.

• Ensure completely dry and dust-free (I use compressed air to blow it off).

• Spray successive light coats of colour until the colour is solid. Do not sand between. I use automotive touch-up spray. For the guitar above I used Dupli-Color "Deep Sherwood" (CBCC0253). It took about 6 very light coats over a half hour period.

• Allow at least 2-4 weeks to fully dry.

• Lightly hand sand with 2000 grit.

• Finish with Varithane Professional Clear Finish (polyurethane). Apply about 4 light coats over a 30 minute period. This clear-coat is self-levelling and I haven't had any issues with runs or sags.

• Allow at least 4 weeks to fully cure - until you can't smell it anymore.

• I usually don't do any polishing - the guitars I refinish are never meant to be "pristine" - but I think with a light cutting-and-polishing compound and a buffer it might improve the finish?

laurie wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 09, 2025 1:29 pm

I've only ever refinished guitars in a solid colour. Generally the ones I refinish have been knocked around quite badly and a transparent finish would show the repairs.

Of course, always use PPE - safety glasses, gloves, respirator, etc. Plus do the spraying in a well ventilated area.

This is the process I use. All sanding is done wet with wet-and-dry sandpaper.

• Sand back old finish with 220 grit. I never take it all back to the wood because I only finish in solid colours. Only need to ensure the old finish is scuffed for adhesion of the new paint.

• Fill any large imperfections with Bondo auto body filler. Carefully sand smooth with 220 grit and a block. Needs great care and the use of a block because the Bondo is tougher than the surrounding old paint.

• Once the surface is completely smooth give one last light sand with 400 grit.

• Spray the entire body with filler-primer: https://www.duplicolor.com/en/products/ ... ler-primer

• Hand sand smooth with 600 grit.

• Repeat the two steps above if any sanding scratches are still physically evident from the previous 220 grit sanding.

• Ensure completely dry and dust-free (I use compressed air to blow it off).

• Spray successive light coats of colour until the colour is solid. Do not sand between. I use automotive touch-up spray. For the guitar above I used Dupli-Color "Deep Sherwood" (CBCC0253). It took about 6 very light coats over a half hour period.

• Allow at least 2-4 weeks to fully dry.

• Lightly hand sand with 2000 grit.

• Finish with Varithane Professional Clear Finish (polyurethane). Apply about 4 light coats over a 30 minute period. This clear-coat is self-levelling and I haven't had any issues with runs or sags.

• Allow at least 4 weeks to fully cure - until you can't smell it anymore.

• I usually don't do any polishing - the guitars I refinish are never meant to be "pristine" - but I think with a light cutting-and-polishing compound and a buffer it might improve the finish?

This is really great info. It's not only easy to understand, but the dry/cure times are key. Plus, knowing exactly what that color of green will come in handy for me, it's my favorite instrument color!

Laurie,

Thanks, this is very good info! I think I will venture in that path somewhere in 2025.

Is all the sanding by hand or the 220 grit and 400 grit done with like a "mouse" or something?

Gasgano wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 10, 2025 5:31 pm

Is all the sanding by hand or the 220 grit and 400 grit done with like a "mouse" or something?

All by hand.