BossAreaForum

That's a great price! If I didn't already have a couple of Strymon delays I'd be very tempted.

In most cases Stannol No Clean desoldering braid is simply magic, so normally I don't need to do that. But for the next fiddly project I'm going to try the method with cutting the legs off. The trick with new solder didn't help too much. It might be because nowadays I only use lead-free Stannol HS1...

This is probably also how you do it, but just in case this helps... For tight/difficult component swaps I usually cut the component from its legs then heat and pull one leg at a time. Add some new solder to the old solder just before pulling the leg. Clean the hole with braid. I also use one of thes...

Nice! Great work. Great result.

Mine went this morning. In the hands of Canada Post .......

Pepe wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 27, 2025 6:27 am

Wow, this thing needs 40V?

Indeed.

Both the wah and the boost are controlled optically. There is a bit of mechanical realignment needed.

I'm sure it won't be worth enough to justify the time I'll put into it, but I couldn't see it go into the parts bin without fixing it.

So far I've dismantled the pedal, removed the mains transformer, and swapped the old electrolytic caps including swapping the 1uF caps in the audio path for metallized polyester. Also cleaned and lubricated the pot. Next step is cleaning everything.
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A while ago I bought a Morley PWB (Power Wah Boost) pedal for cheap. Non-functioning. In really rough shape. I'm in the process of rebuilding it. The power supply has a really old 110V 2-prong power cord (no ground) that has to be upgraded. The internal transformer is 28VDC giving around 40VDC volta...

vectra wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 26, 2025 9:30 am

I don't know how much better a real Fender would be, as I don't own a Fender guitar.

I own several, and have owned probably a dozen over the years. The Fleetwood is as good as most and better than some.